Our Zabljak hotel room is actually a suite, with a second room containing an extra bed and the TV. We seem to receive only 3 TV channels. One of them, Pink, must be the local answer to Oxygen. They run back-to-back episodes of cheesy telenovelas (lots of meaningful wide-eye stares, deathbed confessions, and spill-the-truth-to-the-person-in-a-coma) produced in India and Turkey(?). There are Serbian subtitles. Really funny to read that the Indian (or somewhere-in-the-picturesque-village) bubbies are crying out "Hvala Bogu!" (Thank G-d).
Zabljak turns out to be one of the highest inhabited mountain towns in the Balkans. Our hotel, Gorske Oci, attracts an international sports-minded clientele. There are groups from France and Israel this morning at breakfast, either cheering or mourning World Cup final scores.
By choosing a visit to the internet café and Voli Supermarket over going to nearby Crno Jezero (Black Lake), Carol evidently missed a great walk yesterday after our return to town. Although it is a 10km walk around the entire lake (undertaken by the 2 who skipped the Durmitor hike), even those who chose just a look-see enthused about the forested surroundings and the local sellers of fresh fruit, berries, mushrooms, honey etc. Some of that goodness also goes into commercial preserves, one of which advertises itself as "Bosnian Viagra"; another, made from muškatne tikve (squash? pumpkin?)
seeds and oats in an apple jam "helps the enlarged prostate treatment, difficulty to eject urine, psoriasis, rheumatic ailments, and intestinal diseases - take 2 times daily for 3 less spoons! [sic]".
We are packed, fed, and checked out by 8AM. Ahead is a loooong drive to Dubrovnik, with sights to see and places to stop on the way. We exit Montenegro and drive through Bosnia/Herzegovina and then cross borders again.
Around 11AM we arrive in Trebinje, the southernmost city in Bosnia/Herzegovina, to visit a winery, Andelic Vinski Podrum. We receive a very complete history of local viticulture, in existence since Roman times. This winery has won awards for their traditional wines. Turns out that the Zilavka grape, a white varietal, is unique to three small micro locations in Herzegovina. We sample 6 different wines, served generously along with munchies. Everyone is greatly mellowed and pleased. At 5 Euros a bottle, much wine is sold. Carol buys 2 bottles of grappa to take back to the US. Everything is packed to meet airline requirements.
As we head to the Croatian border, the Alps of the inland Via Dinarica give way to rugged coastline. We arrive in Dubrovnik early in the afternoon. Hotel Sumitor, our destination, is a resort hotel on the Lapad peninsula. It lies across the bay from the guesthouse where Carol and Mike stayed.
Today we are given roommates based on our departure arrangements. Those of us flying out of Dubrovnik tomorrow morning at 6:25, as well as those headed to Sarajevo, will get cracking before dawn for a final ride with our driver. Then upstairs to settle into our rooms.
The rest of the afternoon is free time, with a planned reunion by the fountain in the Old City (Stare Grad) at 7PM. There is a beach and a pool at Hotel Sumitor, but they don't interest Carol. She heads out to explore this part of Dubrovnik, with the goal of reaching the Old City in time to find if there is a non-touristy section (and maybe buy an inexpensive souvenir for herself).
From Lapad to Boninovo there are uphill streets leading away from the water. And some good eats growing wild - grapes and tart miniature plums. One residential area is a virtual Little England, with lots of sunburned Brits. There is a lovely oasis inside an almost hidden gated pocket park on the main road, where steep steps lead down to palm trees and trails below.
Finally, into the Old City, up and down the streets leading from the main plaza. As before, everything seems overpriced. A little store with folk art has an embroidered pin cushion. At 50 HRK (about $9.50) it is small, satisfying, and uses up the last Croatian currency. On the other side of the main plaza Carol runs into Netzy, and they walk through a less touristy part of town. The only commerce here - ladies who put out some crochet on benches.
Dinner is served right out on the street. Konoba Sciabecco sets up a line of tables - a little bit sloping downhill. The waitress refuses to serve tap water; Carol orders some tea (cheapest beverage) and a seafood pasta. After a boisterous meal, we catch the public bus back to Hotel Sumitor.
Up at 3AM to have time to shower and final pack. Everything somehow goes into the backpack, including the two packaged bottles of wine. Downstairs a bit after 4AM. Surprise - the hotel has a small breakfast ready for us. Day breaks as we drive to the airport. Three go in; four drive on to Sarajevo.
Inside the airport, there is a full component of passengers for Zagreb and beyond. In the line just in front of Carol is a Korean guy. After a while he calls over about 20 other tourists, who cut into line. "We're a group," he says. "And I'm a group of one," adds Carol, who steps in front of them all.
The 6:25 Croatian Airlines plane gets into Zagreb at 7:20. Then an 8:25 flight to Amsterdam. Kudos to Croatian Airlines for a great magazine. In at 10:30, with time to kill. On past layovers, Mike and Carol have enjoyed visiting the Rijksmuseum Schiphol Airport. However, it is closed for remodeling. Rats. Just then, there is an announcement for an 11:00 service at the "Meditation Center". Why not?
The Meditation Centre (their spelling) turns out to be a nifty space with non-denominational art, religious books spanning faiths and languages, and all the faith paraphernalia (e.g., prayer rugs, head coverings) anyone could need. There is a generic Christian service less than an hour long, with plenty of opportunity for introductions. Most of the attendees work at the airport; for many this is their first visit. We passengers share our 'journeys'. Carol is the only one who doesn't take communion (natch), but adds to the service by providing the Hebrew for the blessing. Turns out that the female officiate, Rev. Wina Hordijk, attended the international conference of airport chaplains in Atlanta a few years ago. She apologizes for the lack of hot drinks and sweets today; after today's service, the entire Meditation Centre will be taken down and relocated to a temporary site while this part of the airport (which will contain the museum) is redeveloped.
Time to make it to the gate before the 1:05 Delta plane to Atlanta boards. Several films and feedings later, landing at 4:56. Easy customs. All packed items (including the wine bottles) in great shape.
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