5 Jul 2014 Dubrovnik/6 Jul 2014 Flight home

Our Zabljak hotel room is actually a suite, with a second room containing an extra bed and the TV. We seem to receive only 3 TV channels. One of them, Pink, must be the local answer to Oxygen. They run back-to-back episodes of cheesy telenovelas (lots of meaningful wide-eye stares, deathbed confessions, and spill-the-truth-to-the-person-in-a-coma) produced in India and Turkey(?). There are Serbian subtitles. Really funny to read that the Indian (or somewhere-in-the-picturesque-village) bubbies are crying out "Hvala Bogu!" (Thank G-d).

Zabljak turns out to be one of the highest inhabited mountain towns in the Balkans. Our hotel, Gorske Oci, attracts an international sports-minded clientele. There are groups from France and Israel this morning at breakfast, either cheering or mourning World Cup final scores. 

By choosing a visit to the internet café and Voli Supermarket over going to nearby Crno Jezero (Black Lake), Carol evidently missed a great walk yesterday after our return to town. Although it is a 10km walk around the entire lake (undertaken by the 2 who skipped the Durmitor hike), even those who chose just a look-see enthused about the forested surroundings and the local sellers of fresh fruit, berries, mushrooms, honey etc. Some of that goodness also goes into commercial preserves, one of which advertises itself as "Bosnian Viagra"; another, made from muškatne tikve (squash? pumpkin?)
seeds and oats in an apple jam "helps the enlarged prostate treatment, difficulty to eject urine, psoriasis, rheumatic ailments, and intestinal diseases - take 2 times daily for 3 less spoons! [sic]".

We are packed, fed, and checked out by 8AM. Ahead is a loooong drive to Dubrovnik, with sights to see and places to stop on the way. We exit Montenegro and drive through Bosnia/Herzegovina and then cross borders again.

Around 11AM we arrive in Trebinje, the southernmost city in Bosnia/Herzegovina, to visit a winery, Andelic Vinski Podrum. We receive a very complete history of local viticulture, in existence since Roman times. This winery has won awards for their traditional wines. Turns out that the Zilavka grape, a white varietal, is unique to three small micro locations in Herzegovina.  We sample 6 different wines, served generously along with munchies. Everyone is greatly mellowed and pleased. At 5 Euros a bottle, much wine is sold. Carol buys 2 bottles of grappa to take back to the US. Everything is packed to meet airline requirements.

As we head to the Croatian border, the Alps of the inland Via Dinarica give way to rugged coastline. We arrive in Dubrovnik early in the afternoon. Hotel Sumitor, our destination, is a resort hotel on the Lapad peninsula. It lies across the bay from the guesthouse where Carol and Mike stayed.

Today we are given roommates based on our departure arrangements. Those of us flying out of Dubrovnik tomorrow morning at 6:25, as well as those headed to Sarajevo, will get cracking before dawn for a final ride with our driver. Then upstairs to settle into our rooms.

The rest of the afternoon is free time, with a planned reunion by the fountain in the Old City (Stare Grad) at 7PM. There is a beach and a pool at Hotel Sumitor, but they don't interest Carol. She heads out to explore this part of Dubrovnik, with the goal of reaching the Old City in time to find if there is a non-touristy section (and maybe buy an inexpensive souvenir for herself).

From Lapad to Boninovo there are uphill streets leading away from the water. And some good eats growing wild - grapes and tart miniature plums. One residential area is a virtual Little England, with lots of sunburned Brits. There is a lovely oasis inside an almost hidden gated pocket park on the main road, where steep steps lead down to palm trees and trails below.

Finally, into the Old City, up and down the streets leading from the main plaza. As before, everything seems overpriced. A little store with folk art has an embroidered pin cushion. At 50 HRK (about $9.50) it is small, satisfying, and uses up the last Croatian currency. On the other side of the main plaza Carol runs into Netzy, and they walk through a less touristy part of town. The only commerce here - ladies who put out some crochet on benches.

Dinner is served right out on the street. Konoba Sciabecco sets up a line of tables - a little bit sloping downhill. The waitress refuses to serve tap water; Carol orders some tea (cheapest beverage) and a seafood pasta. After a boisterous meal, we catch the public bus back to Hotel Sumitor.

Up at 3AM to have time to shower and final pack. Everything somehow goes into the backpack, including the two packaged bottles of wine. Downstairs a bit after 4AM. Surprise - the hotel has a small breakfast ready for us. Day breaks as we drive to the airport. Three go in; four drive on to Sarajevo.

Inside the airport, there is a full component of passengers for Zagreb and beyond. In the line just in front of Carol is a Korean guy. After a while he calls over about 20 other tourists, who cut into line. "We're a group," he says. "And I'm a group of one," adds Carol, who steps in front of them all.

The 6:25 Croatian Airlines plane gets into Zagreb at 7:20. Then an 8:25 flight to Amsterdam. Kudos to Croatian Airlines for a great magazine. In at 10:30, with time to kill. On past layovers, Mike and Carol have enjoyed visiting the Rijksmuseum Schiphol Airport. However, it is closed for remodeling. Rats. Just then, there is an announcement for an 11:00 service at the "Meditation Center". Why not?

 

The Meditation Centre (their spelling) turns out to be a nifty space with non-denominational art, religious books spanning faiths and languages, and all the faith paraphernalia (e.g., prayer rugs, head coverings) anyone could need. There is a generic Christian service less than an hour long, with plenty of opportunity for introductions. Most of the attendees work at the airport; for many this is their first visit. We passengers share our 'journeys'. Carol is the only one who doesn't take communion (natch), but adds to the service by providing the Hebrew for the blessing. Turns out that the female officiate, Rev. Wina Hordijk, attended the international conference of airport chaplains in Atlanta a few years ago. She apologizes for the lack of hot drinks and sweets today; after today's service, the entire Meditation Centre will be taken down and relocated to a temporary site while this part of the airport (which will contain the museum) is redeveloped.

 

Time to make it to the gate before the 1:05 Delta plane to Atlanta boards. Several films and feedings later, landing at 4:56. Easy customs. All packed items (including the wine bottles) in great shape.

4 Jul 2014 Montenegro

Carol

A word about the wash last night. Have found that hiking poles make the perfect place to hang wet laundry. With windows open, dried like a charm.

Interesting fact. There is a detergent called Arf. Not made in Iran.

So much to choose from at buffet breakfast, but muesli, yogurt and fresh fruit *bananas* *apricots* and tea most tempting. Still a question as to where all the piggies are raised. We see cows, goats, sheep and beautiful horses, but nowhere is the source of pork found.

We are in Durmitor National Park, which takes up a large swath of Montenegro up to the Albania border. According to our guide, the country has 2 large parks and once thought to position itself as the eco country. Now a mix of eco sites and just regular stuff. According to our local guide, people here have a reputation of being lazy, working enuf to earn what they need and then just chilling (this from a Bosnian).

Anyway, we drive 30 minutes and start hiking above the treeline. Large elevation gain in a short distance. We self divide into 2 groups to reach the spectacular overlook. 360 degree view, mountains all around. This is true Alpine country. Crystal blue sky, important to drink our water and protect from the sun. We take an hour break for lunch *huge sandwiches of meat, cheese, egg* as the strong ones head on. Lots of time to photograph flowers.

Even the group that was headed to the second peak turns back before reaching it. Our group headed down before them. Slow and steady to reach the bus. Carol, although slow, made the trip down without a break.

At the bottom, we walked through a herd of mildly interested cows. Then, a Slovenian couple came by on bicycles, headed to southern Turkey. The guy said that they were each carrying 50 kg of weight in their 5 paniers. A NZ young woman came by in the opposite direction, Solo, she is spending several months biking around southern Europe. Ah, youth and sunscreen.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a tiny eatery and drinkery. The guy makes all kinds of homemade grappa. Sampled and bought some.

Wandering town before heading back to the hotel for dinner. Zabljack is a bit like Queensland or Aspen, a place for outdoor enthusiasts. Evidently, a lot of Russian money flowed into here. Hotels, 2nd homes, eco camps built. Some successful, some half built.

In honor of July 4th, one of the people in our group is wearing flag earrings. And so it goes.

3 Jul 2014 Bosnia

Carol

 

We leave Hotel Mladost and head for rafting. Cross the border and drive. We each get a wetsuit, boots, helmet. Then we cross back over the border to our put in point.

Being the rafting version, I am the deadweight passenger in the middle. It is fun. This is Class I to II water. Some splashing in. We turn 360 a few times. In the middle of the trip we leave the boat and climb up to a waterfall. Then back in and more paddling. Shower, dress. then lunch cooked at the camp over a fire. Baked casserole of meat, potatoes, carrots. Veggie stuffed peppers. Donuts fresh made.

Back in the van. Cross into Montenegro for good. Long drive to high meadowlands. In a nice hotel. Buffet dinner. Walk to local internet cafe.

2 Jul 2014 Mike Flies Home//Montenegro (Carol)

Mike

 

Up and on the street by 415.  Take the first city bus to the bus station, thus using up the last of the expensive bus rides.

 

On to the airporter.  To the airport before 530.  Everything goes normally.  We lift off.  We are in Zagreb before 730.  Now comes the wait.  Mike's next flight, to Charles de Gaulle in Paris, is not for 5 hours.  He has no kuna, no euros, and no way to eat.  Finally, he pulls out a credit card to get a sandwich and a drink.

 

The flight to Paris is uneventful, and the quick transfer (1 hr 15 min) takes place.  Mike is on his way home, but this is Charles de Gaulle, and his bags will not get in to Atlanta, until 3 Jul.  At least he kept the camera and the house keys in his pocket.

 

Carol 

A COLD shower. Good for the soul I guess.

Breakfast with omelets made to order. Platters of smoked meat, bologna, kaymak, sliced veggies. Big rolls. Juice. Mud coffee. Afterward, we prepare our lunch sandwiches.

We are awed by a huge daddy longlegs outside the motel door.  It walks up the glass window with ease.

Back into Sutjeska National Park today. That looooong gravel road is just outside our hotel. Still, a lengthy ride to our hike starting spot. We enter into a protected section of the park, past a guardhouse and barrier.

Yesterday's hike went to Lake Donje Bare, Ugljesin Peak and Tovamica Ridge. Today, we do a brief intro walk to see Skakavac Waterfall. Then back on the bus and up to Prijevor to hike down to Lake Trnovacko. Now you have all those names!

After about a half hour walking, we enter Crna Gora (Montenegro). No formalities, just a sign on the trail. Mostly downward, alternating hiking on ridge a deep forest. Flowers of all colors, pines, beech trees. The hiker who injured her wrist yesterday still has her arm in a sling, but makes great time with one pole. Mostly downhill walk, but still rocky and/or muddy in spots.

The lake is heart-shaped, if you use your imagination. The water is cold, with polliwogs and small fish. We are cautioned to cool down before dipping in (2 people do). A farmer has herded his cattle down to drink. Therefore, cow flops and flies. Lunch feels like a feast.

At one point, Carol goes by some trees to "squat." She finds a 20 pfennig KM coin, and gets a glob of sticky tree sap in her hair. Can't remove it.

Slow uphill back to the bus. By the end, solo with our American guide - nice conversation while walking.

1 Jul 2014 Dubrovnik (Mike)/Sutjevska Park (Carol)

1 Jul 2014 Dubrovnik (Mike)/Sutjevska Park (Carol)

Mike

 

The bus to Dubrovnik doesn't leave until after noon, so Mike has some time to kill.  Another walk around town.  In the tourist area, he finds a complete history of the Serbian/Bosnian/Croat controversy and buys it.  As is always in this part of the world, the truth of the matter is in the eyes of the narrator, and there is too much truth.  As Stephen Colbert would say: "The truthiness of the matter."  Here, truthiness is not necessarily truth - it is the opinion of the narrator as to the truth.

 

Finally, on the bus.  As before, the bus leaves Bosnia for Croatia, then back to Bosnia, then back to Croatia for the final hour or so along the coast into Dubrovnik.  This time, for some reason, the border crossings are so much more efficient, and we are in Dubrovnik about 2 hours faster than the last time.

 

Mike has arranged a room at the same hostel, but this time for 240 kuna, not 320 kuna.  He checks in, goes to the touristy parts of Dubrovnik, finds it every bit as overpriced as it was before.  The Lonely Planet Croatia is 172 kuna, more expensive than the same book in the USA, for example.

 

Dinner at the same restaurant, where Mike carefully uses up his kuna.  Tomorrow am he will catch the 455 bus to the airport, so it is early to bed, in the hopes that his alarm actually works.

 

Carol 

Today we leave urban Mostar for Sutjeska National Park. We also leave, after a certain point, Latin letters.

About an hour into our ride we are flagged down and asked to stop at a crossroads. Why? Driver gets out, another cop arrives, our feisty local guide is steamed. Several of us head further afield for a pee break. Eventually, back on the road. Local guide spends a while recounting story of childhood privations, fears and indignities during the bad times. These (probably Bosnian Serb) cops have brought back bad memories of the Chetniks.

Next town and the following have Cyrillic lettering on most signs. Also, cows instead of sheep. Probably no relationship.

More driving on main road, then UPHILL on loooong narrow gravel road. We pass some loggers. But, isn't this a national park...

Finally we get to trailhead. Out for lunch of PBJs, ajvar, cantaloupe. At some point, backpack feels wet. The rubber mouthpiece no longer on biteguard.

On to hike in tall meadow grass. Then sharp uphill. Group breaks up. Eventually, 5 of us start downhill. Carol does some butt skiing. When the full group reunites, one of our hikers has taken a bad fall. Her wrist has been skillfully tended to with the allied skills of our hikers. Two guys also have joined in this second group. One of them sports the cap of an Atlanta bar. Graduate of Chamblee HS and UGA. Small world.

Mouthpiece in bus.

Our hotel is a resort with post Soviet chalet style. Dinner of pork toast, veggies, risotto, vanilla pudding/ Now, to bed.

30 Jun 2014 Sarajevo to Mostar (Mike)/Mostar (Carol)

30 Jun 2014 Sarajevo to Mostar (Mike)/Mostar (Carol)

Mike

 

Breakfast at the hotel.  Mike settles his bill.  Time to see some of the Sarajevo anniversary exhibits - there is a big Peace exhibit which Mike can't find, but he does manage to find a large collection of political cartoons all along the river walkway, about War and Sarajevo and the eternal religious political fight that is Bosnia.  Back across the river for a very quick visit to the 11 July Museum, the museum about the killing of Muslims at Srebrenica on 11 July 1995 and the following weeks.    Mike only has about 30 minutes here.  Too bad.  This museum is worth hours.

 

It is starting to rain very heavily.  Mike runs back to the hotel, grabs his backpack, leaves the key, and between the raindrops goes back to the tram.  He takes the tram to the turn off to the bus station, and waits for the rain to let up.  Finally, in a light rain, he walks the last 200 m to the bus station.  One bus to Mostar has just pulled out, but Mike's ticket is for the next one, leaving in about 15 minutes.

 

All aboard.  By the time we are on the road, the rain has let up.  We stop at the Healthy Water Restaurant, and once again, Mike gets the 300 g of roast lamb.  Can't get enough of the good stuff.

 

We pull into Mostar bus station, and Mike walks the 100+ m to his previously reserved room.  Touts everywhere.  He unpacks, and close to 1700 goes out for the walk of the town.  The Nerevsta River runs north-south here.  East of the river is Bosnian-Muslim.  West of the river is Croatian-Catholic.  The bus station and Mike's lodging are on the west side.  Walk south along a street with lots of still bombed out buildings.  Pass the biggest tourist areas, including the area on both sides of the famous Mostar Bridge.  The rebuilding of this bridge in 2004 was the reopening of Mostar for tourist business, and they seem to have all returned.

 

Mike goes to the next bridge down, crosses over, and up to the famous bridge.  The destruction, while substantial, is less on the west side of the river.  There is of course the famous 9 story building hulk and other buildings, but by and large, things are going better on this side.  Here, about 1900, lo and behold, he meets Carol, whose group is a few meters away in another hotel.  Over to say hi to the group again briefly, and then goodby for this trip.  Mike goes back to the tourist restaurant where the two female greeters are forced to dress in the local getup and hand out menus.  But the goulash plate is really tasty, and the beer satisfies. 

 

Sun sets after 2030, and it is back to the room to sleep.

 

Carol

Sightseeing day. Starts off with Mostar walk. Adria is a very competant local guide. She complains that the concrete used between the refurbished cobblestones is difficult for pedestrians, easy for vehicles. Walk the bridge. The walkway is marble, with raised cross sections. Given the rise in the center, better to walk along the sidewalls. Interesting discussion of childraising, vaccination, etc with guide. View the old mosque, then on to a historic house a la turka. The last owners, childless, willed it and the historic furnishings to the town. Two stories filled with neat stuff.

Time for a visit to a Slow Food educational center that is a store and wine cellar. Herzegovina has unique foodways that are being preserved. A lavish spread has been set up for us: ajvar, bread, and Livano cheese. This is the unique "cheese in a bag" aged in a sheep(?) stomach for 6 months. This cheese is already  recognized as a unique cultural heritage. We drink a sage blossom elir (non alchoholic) with medicinal properties, then some grappa (smooth firewater). Then many kinds of halvah and some red wine. Others shop on the street afterward.

On to Pocitelj, a fortress town on UNESCO "tentative list" Much affected by bombing, but buildings like the mosque have been refurbished. Great hillside fortress. We are caught up in heavy rain, but soldier on.

The dervish tekke at Blagaj is our next stop. Still raining, we opt for lunch first. Space made for us at a crowded fish restaurant on the river. Trout the specialty. Our table seats 4, we get 4 platters with 5 fish each. Do the math. Some grilled fish also have a lemon and pumpkinseed cream sauce. Yummy sides of rice and chard. Of course, a salad platter too.

Rain stops during lunch. Dazzling blue sky. The tekke is set next to a sreeam emerging from a grotto under a sheer cliff., Swifts and swallows nest in grottoes. Many wild pomegranate trees (unique regional subspecies). Enchanting.

It is a Muslim contemplative site, but everything Carol learned in Iran about Zoroastrianism glaringly obvious in what we see before us. We must remove shoes, cover hair and shoulders. Not enough full length shirt wraps for all us girls (OK for our tour guide, a contemplative and local guy with excellent English). Beautiful rugs with vegetal symbolism. Carol asks lots of questions. This is syncretism, a mash up of the old religion and Islam, IMHO.

Back to Mostar. Free time to wander. Drop in at the war photo exhibit, then Carol sets off to view some of the less touristed areas. In search of the synagogue site. Finally, after lots of map reading and enquiries, find the marker denoting where it was, and might again be someday. Then another batch of wash set out under sun.

Where are my shopping genes? Even walking out with friends and scouring shops, nothing tempts. We do stop at a place where a master embroderer has created word pictures of Islamic verse: glorious, large, pricey.

Comes the rain (and Mike).

Just munchies in place of dinner. Bag the wet wash in my pack. To bed.

29 Jun 2014 Sarajevo & Srebrenica (Mike)/to Mostar (Carol)

29 Jun 2014 Sarajevo & Srebrenica (Mike)/to Mostar (Carol)
Mike

Today was to be a long day trip to Srebrenica for Mike.  From the Central Bus Station, there is a 7:15 am bus to Srebrenica and a 4:30 pm return.  Yesterday he had bought that round trip.

Up very early, walk the few hundred meters to the Bascanica tram stop, where there are others waiting.  There are two trams from here.  The basic tram goes all the way to Ilidza, which we took two days ago on the way to the Tunnel Museum.  There is another tram which pulls into the train/bus station area, just after leaving the downtown area.  That second tram is what Mike needs.

Breakfast is a quick pastry and coffee from an open shop.  But instead of waiting at the tram stop for a tram that may not be coming, Mike starts walking, at least to the next tram stop.  It is 6:00 am and the sky is clear.  The sun is shining.  Everything is beautiful ... and no tram seems to be coming.  So, walk to the next tram stop, . . . and the next.  The train station is 6 tram stops.  After the fourth tram stop, Mike sees a tram waiting to go the station, so he hops on for the two remaining stops.  On the walk, there is a sign: "Ramazanserif Mubarek Olsun," which probably means Have a Blessed Ramadan.  It probably also means that today (29 Jun) is the first day of Ramadan.

Mike is at the bus station at 6:45 am.  There he meets the other Swedish couple, who were on our Dubrovnik-Sarajevo bus.  They are going off to Mostar today. 

There are both regional and international buses coming in and leaving.  At 7:08 am, a bus pulls in with the sign "Srebrenica-Sarajevo: Bratunac, Milici, Vlasenica, Kladanj, Olovo."  We are obviously doing the trip in reverse, and it is obviously Mike's bus, so on he goes.  There are maybe 8 folks on this 45 passenger bus, so he grabs the front seat. No one complains.  We go north towards Olovo in the hills, picking up a few, dropping off a few.  We make it to Kladanj at 8:50 am.  It is a sleepy town with not much happening, but we need a smoke stop.  Off to the side, someone is grilling a big batch of whole chickens.  By noon, there is going to be some good eating.

At 9:30 am we pull into Vlasenica.  The further we go, the more Cyrillic (Serb), and the less Roman (Bosnian, Croat) lettering.  The signs around here are mostly in Cyrillic, with some Roman lettering here and there.  This is one country, but there is a very uneasy peace between the parties.  As we go eastward (towards Serbia) it is getting a whole lot more Serbian in tone. At 9:50 am we are at Milici.  This is a bus station with 10 gates, but probably only 20 buses a day.  Finally, we are in Srebrenica.  It is 10:40 am.  It is not clear where the bus station is, but this looks like the town center, so I get off.  There are two new mosque minarets here.  There is also a restaurant.  Though 20 years ago, this area was a Muslim region surrounded by Serbs, today the Serbs dominate.  We are near the Drina River, which separates Bosnia from Serbia proper.  Everything is in Cyrillic, nothing in Roman letters.  The post office box says "Poste Srpske," with not a hint that we are still in Bosnia.

Because Mike had almost no breakfast, he orders a bowl of chicken soup, a bowl of goulash, and a coffee.  It comes to less than 10 KM ($7) and is very tasty.

A little history is in order.  Before 1992, this corner of Bosnia was heavily Muslim-Bosniak.  When civil war broke out, the UN declared Srebrenica a "safe haven," and the mostly Muslim city of 10,000 swelled to 50,000 folks.  The Serbs threatened the small "safe haven" territory, and the small Dutch contingent of the UNPROFOR was supposed to protect the area.  Finally, on 11 July 1995, the Serbs overwhelmed the Dutch, the Serbs controlled the town, and the local population fled into the hills.  The Dutch were stationed at Potocari, a small community about 4 km north of Srebrenica, and about 4 km south of the town of Bratunac.  There tens of thousands of Muslim refugees streamed, and the Dutch couldn't protect them.  The net result was the massacre, over the next week or so, of close to ten thousand Muslim men and boys.

By October the parties were negotiating in Dayton, Ohio, and the Dayton Accords of Dec 1995 "resolved" these issues.  The resolution involved splitting Bosnia into 10 cantons, each of which would be dominated by one of the three competing regional groups (Boshiak, Serb, Croat).  This framework remains til today.

Not long after the accords, professionals and locals started digging up mass graves and identifying bodies.  By 2003 a cemetery was built in Potocari and dedicated.  As of today there are 8372 graves and a stark memorial.

Mike finished the meal fairly quickly, decided that there was little of tourist interest in Srebrenica, and asked (in terrible Serbian), "Is there a taxi?"  For that matter he may have asked it in Russian, or in no discernible language.  Anyway, the question came across as "Taxi?"  At which time, a gentleman got up from his coffee, went to his private car. Guess I had a taxi.  We agreed on 5 KM ($3.50).  Who knows if it was a fair price?  Off we went, back up the road toward Bratunac.

He left Mike off at the memorial.  There is a pavilion, surrounded on three sides by a circular, alphabetically arranged list of the deceased.  All of this is surrounded by 8372 nearly identical gravestones.  I have not been to other similar memorials (Vietnam War, 9/11, e.g.) but this one certainly rates as among the most moving memorials in existence.

I took in the memorial for about a half hour.  It was not yet noon, and I had more than 4 1/2 hours to spend here.  So I took a leisurely walk along the road into Bratunac.  About 40 minutes later, I was in Bratunac, at the bus station.  I had 4 hours to spare.  I took a short walk into the town center, bought a soda, went back, sat down in the adjoining cafeteria and had a beer, and mostly vegged out.

Srebrenica/Potocari is a shouldn't miss place, but boy is it a nuisance getting to and from.  As I sat there with nothing to do but wait, I started contemplating trips in an alternate universe.  We could have taken a direct bus from Belgrade to Sarajevo, but . . .

There are 3 buses a day from Belgrade to Bratunac.  You get to Bratunac, walk or take a taxi, or some local bus to Srebrenica and Potocari, see Srebrenica itself and see the memorial cemetery at Potocari, get back to Bratunac, and then take one of three buses to Sarajevo.  As I sat there I noted that it didn't seem to be possible to buy Bosnian KMs in this town, and contemplated actually buying a ticket on a Bosnian bus using only Serbian money.  It is probably realistic.  At 2:30 pm, a bus was going back to Sarajevo, along an entirely different route (Visegrad, Pale).  It was going to end up at the Dobrinja bus station 10 km west of downtown not far from Ilidza and the airport.  But its route felt much more Serbian.

Any way, after an uneventful trip, we were back in Sarajevo after 8 pm.  I took the tram into town, got off a little too soon, but finally made my way to the Sarajevska Pivinca, where Carol had eaten the night before.  A delicious plate of sausage, fries, and a large beer met my needs, and I walked back to go to bed.

Carol

Hotel transfer day for the group. With packing + breakfast + luggage, we do not leave Sarajevo until 9:15. When we get to the trailhead at 11:55, it is already hot. Since yesterday midmorning, Carol has been experiencing some Montezuma (Tito? UNESCO?) revenge. It has struck full force today. It is already quite warm when we start hiking the Diva Grabovica Valley. Here are those scary tall crags we viewed on the bus from Dubrovnik to Sarajevo.

Long story short: Carol ready to call it quits 1/3 up of the way up at a fine natural spring. It's quite enjoyable watching the dragonflies and an unusual butterfly. Our leader Ann summons our driver, who walks Carol back down to the van. Ann has brought along an interesting book, "A Short History of Bosnia." Great read! Eventually the rest of the crew comes back, totally bushed. Carol feels ashamed and defeated, but it was the right choice for today.

Back down the bumpy road into town. We settle in to a nice place in Mostar, "Motel Demadino." Our room has a kitchenette with a deep sink and a huge private patio perfect for drying clothes. Rub a dub dub time.

Lovely dinner overlooking the river and a perfect view of the famous REFURBISHED Old Bridge. Honestly, it's not what Carol imagined. It does not have the delicacy of Venetian bridges; instead, it is a sturdy ribbed stone structure that served to unite the town - until it was blown to smithereens. A nearby museum runs a loop film about its destruction and rebirth.

What a dinner: huge platters of salad and all kinds of grilled meat, including chicken and grilled liver. Another platter of stuffed veggies (onion, pepper, tomatoes). Instead of grape leaves, the sarmele use either chard or kale.

A little wandering after dinner, then time for bed.